My last pair of ballet shoes was a set of La Sportiva Miura VS Vibram XS Edge's. They were a 43 1/2 but compressed my toes to an uncomfortable level (read: I'm a 44 in La Sportivas). I wear a size 10 in Nikes, so when I read some reviews on the Tenayas talking about bumping down 2 - 2 1/2 sizes, I originally ordered a size 8. Nowhere near close. After placing three orders, I went with a 9.5 in the Tenayas. Great success! These shoes look awesome, and the comfort level is way beyond the La Sportivas, fitting more like a glove and not a plastic box. The rubber is softer than most shoes, which makes slipping less occurrent, but allows them to flex a little more.
My favorite climbing shoes. These are just as comfortable as The Ras, but with a more aggressive downturned camber. Their performance does not diminish on smears and edges and they excel on steep terrain. Great shoe.
"Like Solutions, but better and also not"
So I have been looking at these for awhile. I always bitch about La Sportiva Solutions, yet still buy five or so pairs a year. My only complaint with those is the heel. Its worthless. Enter the Oasi. Its a SOlution with a better heel; a heel almost identical to the Five Ten Dragon. So I was pretty damn pysched, it was like the best of both worlds. Finally the perfect climbing shoe. But, the toe rubber on the Oasi is like some weird foam rubber. Its not vibram, I'm pretty certain of that. Its not bad at toes hooking, its just not great. Certainly doesnt perform like the Solution. They fit identical to the Solution so if you're familiar with those then you'll not need to try on a ton of shoes to find the fit. I wear a 10us and wear a 7us. I do like the shoes snug though
The Oasi has replaced everything else as my go-to shoe for anything past vertical. I've never worn a shoe that is so high performance AND so comfortable. Lots of companies seem to be marketing that way, but the Oasi actually accomplishes it. You can adjust the length of the strap, which comes in really handy for my low volume foot. They're super sensitive and precise, and the heel fits perfectly without digging in.