TCUs by Metolius are great for both alpine and free climbing where weight is a critical factor. Aid climbers also love 'em because their narrow head width allows them to fit so many placements that other cams won't, like shallow seams, pockets and pin scars. Now with the Range Finder feedback system, they are easier and safer to place than ever! The stainless steel, U-shaped body offers greater durability than single-stem units and unparalleled control during placement and retraction. As with all Metolius cams, the design is focused on holding power. Metolius TCUs are a must-have for any climber's rack!By going direct to the axle (D.A.T.) Metolius has made the world's best selling mini cam even lighter and more versatile. This new technology makes the TCU's the lightest units in the world, opens up a myriad of placement options and makes placement easier. The design is focused on holding power, and it does this with the optimized cam angle for more outward force and wider cam faces for more grip. The Range Finder system makes them easier and safer to place than ever. A must have piece for free climbing, aid routes and alpine climbing.
DECENT FEATURES of the Metolius Ultralight TCU
The world's best-selling mini cam
Narrow head width for the most placement options
Direct Axle Technology (DAT ) makes Ultralight TCUs the lightest cams in the world!
DAT allows for more placement options in shallow, narrow, or bottoming placements
DAT makes tricky placements easier due to better cam lobe visibility, especially in the small sizes
13 mm (0.51") Monster Sling webbing (36% Dyneema/64% nylon)
Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement
Optimized cam angle for increased holding power
Wider cam faces for more grip
U-shaped body for greater durability and unparalleled control during placement and retraction
Machined cam stops
Color-coded sewn slings and tubing
CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams
Hand built, inspected and individually tested to 1/2 its rated strength in Bend, Oregon
"Number 1. I could use 3-4 of you on my rack. Perfect"
I use these little guys almost every route I climb. Use the on almost every anchor that needs some pro. Sent a climb in CT yesterday and used 1-4 more than once. The design is simple and very effective. If you have giant paws, it may be a little difficult to set and clean but that never stopped you did it? If you don't have them... find a friend and try em out. Then go out and get a pretty set of them. If you buy em and don't like them. Give them to me.
The design may be old, but it still works great. These things rock because of just how light they are. They are the first pieces of gear I bring when I plan on anything Alpine related. Even with the U shaped body, they fit into small cracks really well. They aren't the best for aiding however, they will work for great too. They are also confidence inspiring and when you tug on one it is obvious it ain't going anywhere. Only thing to remember is that the slings they have are short. Just extend them like you would most other cams and they shouldn't walk too bad.
These work great when the pro gets thin. I like to use these when crack get to the size of fingers and smaller. They don't fit the greatest in some pods, due to the U shape. But it is just something to be mindful of.Also, just get in the habit of extending the sling when you think there is going to be "walking" potential for any cams.
Cheapest of the mini's and work great. However, if you have large fat fingers don't get these, they are designed for people with very small (skinny) fingers and or children J/k! But seriously if you have any doubts go in and play with em first. Also a word of caution about the range finder system. If you get into the green zone and your cam walks at all you may be looking at a lost cam or 10 minutes with a nut tool trying to get that guy unstuck. Otherwise I think that they hold really well, and I have personally taken a decent fall on the orange one, so i can vouch for it at the very least.
I like TCUs pretty well. Not quite as squirmy as Aliens and with not quite the range, these never seem to get as small as you think they should when you are trying to place them... but they are super light and feel great when you get them placed (more confidence-inspiring than larger Metolius cams).
"Great Protection for lightwieight minded folks"
A great many people will nitpick these things to death. However, they are great when used properly. They are super lightweight, solid construction and bomber in on rock. Some people cite their ability to walk and their short slings as complaints. Don't listen to em. They're cheap and very reliable when properly placed. I've taken mean lead falls on these babies down to size 2 and I definitely trust them. The 00 is the smallest piece in the lineup, good for about a 3,4 or 5 nut sized placement.
These are very light weight and rack well. I prefer these over the power cams in sizes 1-4 becasue these tend to fit in irregular cracks better. I haven't fallen on one yet, but I feel confident in the holding power after I place one.
I own 00-3 and love these for narrow placements. The trigger is much smoother than the C3s and these tend to be a bit more stable in vertical placements. They are cheaper than the C3s, lighter, and have larger ranges in most of the smaller sizes. I don't like anything larger than a 3 since they tend to walk more in flaring cracks as compared to C4s, Aliens, and Power cams, but the TCU is one of the best for really thin protection.
I use a mixed rack and out of all the cams I own the Metolius TCU is probable tied for second for my favorite...you just can't beat a stem necks flexibility...I can't wait for the Master Cams to come out in June!
"great on the small sizes, but larger tend to jam easily"
I have a mixed rack of cams, but I use a 1 Metolius and simply love it. I have had no problems with it and tend to use nuts more when a smaller size of trad gear is needed. I have heard from some of my buddies that the larger Metolius cams can have problems with jamming due to their shape...I have never had this problem but I use trango and black diamond cams for larger sizes normal. Overall its Metolius...so you can't go wrong!