The Five Ten Men's Hornet Shoe. There is no better shoe for high-end sport climbing, bouldering or competition climbing. The Hornet is built on a new state-of-the-art low volume last, with a downturned toe and an asymmetrical lacing system that allows for a perfect, custom fit. The upper is synthetic Cowdura with a 3-D Polytechnic coating that increases durability and abrasion resistance without adding weight. The Mystique outsole offers unparalleled grip, precision and durability.
This shoe is sized all wrong. Whatever you wear in a good fitting climbing shoe, go at least a full size or size and a half above it. With that being said, this shoe is pretty kick ass. The rubber is really thin but incredibly sticky. The heel cup is really deep so it takes a while to fit properly. This would be really good for gym climbing and overhangs outside.
This has been my best friend to climbing since I first demoed them at a climbing competition just months before their release. I previously climbed with the 5.10 Projects which I loved but wanted the Dragons due to the laces. Naturally when the Hornets became public I knew they would be my next shoe. I am about to blow out my second pair and will surely be purchasing a third. This is and will be my exclusive bouldering shoe for quite a while I'm sure.
Loved the shoes as soon as I put them on, the mystique rubber sticks to anything but only after a month of climbing in them the toes had ripped thru on both of them.
These shoes are definatly good to get for overhanging lines but they don't work so well on flat walls when you need to smear. I really enjoy that the laces go down to the toes, you can really tighten them. They do feel funny because they turn your foot but on the wall it feels like you can get more out of them. I got them a half size down from my street shoe and they feel nice and tight. The pull tabs are sturdy and the shoe lip is very soft and breathable. I previously had the fiveten quantums and I like these more. The heel cup fits better, and the rubber seems softer but it holds better.
"Don't buy these shoes unless your feet are very specially shaped"
06/16/11
My street shoe size is 9. So based on an early review about these shoes, I bought a 9.5 size pair. Even though I was able to put my feet in them, all my toes were extremely cramped and it was painful. So I returned them and decided to get size 10 instead. Same issue with the bigger size. So I carefully examined the shoes and realized how the heels were designed for these shoes was totally inhuman..The heel curved more than normal human heels are shaped and the actually shoes were more curved than the picture.. That means your heels will never fit snug in these shoes. When you climb, it'll be extremely difficult if you wanna use heel hook or similar techniques.
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