By far the best of the 30 or so shoes I have tried. Performed much better on roofs and precision moves than the Anasazi VCS or Katana Lace. If sized correctly you toes are put into the perfect power position. However, unlike other aggressive shoes the VS has great contact with the holds when bouldering, and smears very well when broken in. There is a divot underneath the toes, and the rubber is just soft enough to really allow the shoe to hook on roofs. Excellent heel hooking, toe hooking, and the separation of front and back allows you to pull into the hold. Sizing: I was fortunate enough to try this shoe on a demo night when it was stretched out. Otherwise I probably would have never bought it. I have to admit the break in has been brutal. I tried getting them wet and climbing several times. I bought a shoe stretcher and stretched them to almost breaking; they are just now becoming reasonably comfortable. My size 44 is too tight; size up a little in comparison to other shoes mention
I have tried on no less than 20 climbing shoes, and demo'd about 10 tonight. I've been a La Sportiva die hard fan, but these shoes blew my mind. They instantly felt secure, precise, powerful, and very well made. The toe box seems among the most roomy, but also great at directing power. This must be due to the bi-tension system. I also surprisingly like the separated front and rear of the shoe. The toe has great rubber for toe hooking. Heel is VERY secure. Edged great and fit like a glove while being as comfortable as my La Sportiva Katana Laces. I am a size 11 street shoe and the 43.5 was pretty comfortable, but really difficult to get on; I will get a 44 for a tight but more comfortable fit when I buy them.
"Light! Comfy! Easy on and off shoe! Lots of nice features! Well Worth it."
I wear 9.5 street shoe and have a slender foot. Sometimes it makes finding the right climbing shoe a trick, I use to use the the La Sportiva Miura's in a size 40. After going through three pairs of the Miua's I wanted to try something different. So I decided to give the Instinct VS's a try. I ended up sizing up for the VS,( to a 41). Once I got that figured out I fell in love! The VS's fit my feet well, the shoes are quick and easy to put on and take off. I love the features, like the rubber covered toe area, how light the are,and looks like the quality is good as well. all in all they are really good shoes.
"Solid shoe. Order maybe a half size larger than a solution"
I wear a 42.5 in solutions, I tried these in a 44 based on recommendations that they run a little larger and that a 42.5 in boosters was a little bit too small. I'm returning the 44's for a pair of 43's, assuming that they'll stretch a tiny bit. I really like the design, they seem quite sturdy.
"a secret weapon for the sport climber's arsenal"
I demo'd these bad boys at the New River Rendezvous earlier this summer, and I couldn't have been more pleased. Maybe Scarpa shoes just click with my foot shape, but these shoes felt snug and comfy right out of the gate. They performed on all the varieties of sport routes the New has to offer. That stiff scarpa edge did as well as expected on more vertical routes, but really stuck out when it started pulling with heels and snagging toe hooks (yep, all that new rubber on top is pretty handy) on the steeper and more gymnastic stuff. The synthetic upper offers the promise of that snug and comfy fit lasting for quite a while, and I've always been a fan of scarpa's rubber durability. Although I identify as a lace-up guy, i think these slippers kick quite a bit of boo-tay.