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The Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device. The alpine version of the award-winning Smart can also be used with half ropes as well with single ropes, making it the ideal companion for all alpine rock and ice pursuits. When it comes to belaying, the Smart Alpine offers the same excellent qualities as the Smart: dynamic braking of the climber in an accidental fall, and locks even at low levels of force exerted by the user. The Smart Alpine can also be used to independently belay one or two second climbers in an autolocking mode from the fixed point. The device is also ideal for abseiling. Black-red version for use with rope diameters of 8.9 - 10.5 mm.
FEATURES of the Mammut Smart Alpine
The alpine version of the award-winning Smart can also be used with Half Ropes as well with Single Ropes, making it the ideal companion for all alpine rock and ice pursuits
Excellent qualities as the Smart
Dynamic braking of the climber in an accidental fall, and locks even at low levels of force exerted by the user
The Smart Alpine can also be used to independently belay one or two second climbers in an auto locking mode from the fixed point
Ideal for abseiling
Black-red version for use with rope diameters of 8.9 to 10.5 mm, Silver-red version for use with rope diameters of 7.5 to 9.5 mm
*Please note that this is NOT a "hands-off" belay device. The brake-end of the rope must be controlled at all times, and this is merely an "assisted braking device", where the device will function in a way that a portion, not all, of the braking power is done by the device itself. Also, the device is not intended to hold the rope with a 100% positive "stop", as there is some slip built into the device to facilitate a dynamic belay. Sorry to be so mean about it, but this is super serious stuff.
Fits Rope Size:
Suitable for Belaying:
All climbing equipment is final sale. Sorry to be so mean about it.
This size guide is lost, but not forgotten. We've got our top people working on a new one.
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Love the Madness,
Rated 4 out of
Nice alternative for switching in belay devicesI got this item on sale, so never a bad thing or a reason to whine about. I got the double model and wanted to start using it for multipitches instead of the ATC guide. First feel, takes a while to get used to especially on lead belay, then it becomes smoother as you use it more often. When belaying top rope its much more comfortable than an ATC and beats it in that. You're also more relaxed since it has this sort of autolocking mechanism on falls which adds to the improvement over the ATC. The only down side is its size compared to an ATC, bit bulky and well poles out a bit when hung on the back of your harness (poked me in the back when trying to chimney up a route).
Date published: 2014-05-23
Rated 5 out of
Get it and never look backI honestly can't think of any reason to get any device other than this one unless you're just starting out and get the standard ATC to learn on. Handles very similarly to the old smart so it takes some getting used to but it's well worth it. Though, not technically anyways, auto-locking it feels pretty dang similar to all the gri-gris ive used, but it's half the price. The twin slots and guide mode were the clinchers for me because tend to climb in awkward group sizes. Hint: if your crossbars rotate a little bit as mine did, I've already contacted the manufacturer and they've assured me that it has no effect on the safety and I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary either
Date published: 2011-05-03
Rated 5 out of
Mammut does it againLike with all their other products, Mammut kills it with this belay device. It function much the same as the Petzl Reverso or BD ATC guide, however includes a locking feature with aids the belayer when a climbing is hang dogging a route. It's fairly light and includes an extension that assists in lowering a climbing. Ropes feed great, its great with rappels, and it's down right difficult to mess up how to use it. I really love this device and am confident that if I hadn't bought an ATC Guide beforehand, it would be my device of choice.
Date published: 2014-07-08
Rated 5 out of
I really like this belay device, two minor caveatsI really like this belay device and it gives a little extra security over a basic ATC without any moving parts or complexity. Also pretty cool that you can sit on some ropes hands free - not that I would do this at height. It can take a little getting used to, lowering in particular *can* be a little jerky while you're getting used to it - particularly if you're using the belay device to regulate the speed more than your hand.
For gym use the larger size works on some ropes - but the really heavy duty stiff 10.5 ropes often used by gyms for durability are very difficult to pull through.
You need a fairly flat topped carabiner - I like the magnetron gridlocks for the extra security in not flipping your carabiner orientation... however the curve can cause them to slip / isn't quite a perfect match.
Date published: 2015-07-26
Rated 5 out of
Jack-of-all-trades with few downsidesI got rid of all my other belay devices and have been using the Alpine Smart exclusively for sport and (mostly) trad climbing for the past year.,,,,The Good:,,- handles single or double ropes,,- forces the belayer to use proper belay technique in order for the auto-locking function to activate. It encourages good form and safety, with the autolock as backup!,,-autlocking on rappel = amazing. if you forget your prussik/autoblock there's no need to worry since it has that covered.,,- Belays two ropes from above in auto-locking guide mode,,-When using doubles, paying out one rope at a time is incredibly easy.,,-lightweight and sexy,,,,The Bad:,,- Not as smooth as other tube-style belay devices for paying out slack quickly on lead- it takes some getting used to.,,-Rapelling requires a little more force to disengage the lock.,,-Only certain thickness locking carabiners are compatible for safe belaying/locking,,-occasionally it will lock if you aren't paying attention.
Date published: 2015-03-18
Rated 5 out of
Buy it. It has made me a safer alpine climberI just got back from a successful weekend up Shark Fin Tower and the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak, and my buddy, who was skeptical of it's importance on our last two Squamish Chief climbing trips, has now decided to get one as well after seeing its safety advantages in the alpine environment. ,,,,Having the double rope rappel "auto-lock" backup is priceless on awkward alpine rappels where crampons, loose rock, bergschrunds, rope management, and angled rappels can all come together in one place. In these rappel situations it is quite easy to use the device with a single hand (unlike Gri-Gri or Cinch which require both hands) and release the "auto-lock" while confidently holding the rope tail in the same hand. I also found it very smooth and controllable on rappels in both auto-lock and free rappel mode. ,,,,Belaying a lead climber is a breeze once you figure it out as it rolls the rope through it very smoothly and guide mode is simply night and day better than the ATC guide. ,,,,,,,,
Date published: 2014-07-08
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There has been mention of a certain size carabiner working well with this device...what would you recommend?
Asked by: sparkle
Thanks for the question. This device works best with a wide carabiner. I hope this helps.
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