"Nothing better of the majority of climbs"
Other than Denali or Mount Logan (and the like), this boot is perfect and keeps you dry and thus warm. I trounced in the snow for days as we camped on glaciers without any wetness issues. You have to take care of them as they are leather.
I searched around forever to find the right mountaineering boot for me, and boy I'm happy I found these. They have a well deserved reputation as the best single, "classic leather" mountaineering boot on the planet. They're beefy and very warm, but with enough 'feel' that you can climb some pretty sketchy stuff without missing your approach shoes. They’re also very comfy: 10 miles of breaking them in and they felt just right. No blisters, no hot spots, and 60 lbs on my back didn't make my feet hurt. Sweet!I have a US 11 street size, and bought 45s. I'm happy with that choice, as thick socks plus the pack load means I fill out the larger boot but with feel for the rocks/snow under foot.
I'm a lineman and was looking for a good winter boot, heard a lot of good things from co workers who wear sportiva for work so I gave them a try. So far so good, a little stiff at first but I was warned of that and they seem to be getting better.
Fit of these boots is just what I expected. Good thing about them is the lace lock system between the lower and upper boots. You can keep the lower a bit looser and tighten down the uppers. I really like how they hike but immediately replaced the insole with an aftermarket for more arch support. I use BD Cyborg crampons in mono and felt very precise when climbing rock and could stick my point on small edges and feel very solid. Felt very stable on ice as well. Nice rigid platform when on nothing but front points yet flexible enough to drop your heels. Warmth was as expected....they are really warm!!
I compared this boot to the Scarpa Mont Blanc, which, in many respects is similar. I finally went for the Nepal due to its superb possibilities of dialing in a fit. The laces can be clamped at the middle eye, which allows the bottom and top half to be tightened differently. Removable tongues give you even more ways to customize your fit. The Mont Blanc has also tongues that can be shifted around, but they are permanently connected to the boot.I wear a 12 in street shoes. For the Nepals I got a 12.5, which allows me to wear them with a thin liner sock and a fat expedition sock on top. With both socks on, my foot length is 29.5cm. The fit is narrower/lower volume than that of the Mont Blanc.
It truly is very versatile in its ability to be used in the Alpine or on tech ice, long slogs are very tolerable whether in snow or on the trail. unlike double boots where you can remove the liners this may not be the first choice for trips you can't dry them out. On the other hand day long or shorter adventures in wet conditions these are still top notch. I found these to be nice and warm even in sub zero temps as well as breathable enough for warmer temps (up to 80). .Full disclosure, although I purchased these boots, I occasionally receive products from the GoreTex Mountain Techs community for participation in their program.
Sportiva Nepals are immensely popular. The leather construction makes them incredibly durable, and warm. Comfortable to walk in for long approaches, I forget I'm in such a heavy-duty boot. Great for ice climbing with the full shank and slight flex. This boot sees more Rainier summits than any other for good reason. Fit is a little narrow, but fits many foot types well. There are better boots out there for more technical use, but the Nepal is perhaps the best all-around mountain boot, and certainly one of the most durable.
Full disclosure, I am a GORE-TEX MountainTech. I use these boots for short mountain climbing trips in the Sierras when the weather gets cold and I expect glaciersl/ice climbing. I typically wear a size 11 shoe and these boots in a 45 fit perfectly with a pair of medium weight socks. I love the Nepal Evos because even with a full shank, they are pretty comfortable to hike in, they are very warm, they fit well with my crampons, and they climbed surprisingly well! (I was able to use these as my only pair of shoes for a trip to climb North Palisade's U-Notch.) The Gore-tex lining breathes well and keeps any water out (the gusset/cuff on the top really helps keep things from falling in!)
I have only had the pleasure of using these at the Ice Tower in Fenton, Mi and in the UP while Ice Climbing over the last two years. However, I bought these with the intention of knocking some Mountains off my bucket list. They keep me super warm while climbing for hours on end. I wear a 10 1/2 US street shoe, and I went with the 43 1/2 and they fit perfect.
I have worn these from multi-day mountaineering expeditions (19,000+ feet) to single day ice climbing trips (-30F). I wear them with a single smart wool mountaineering sock and they rock. My first pair lasted 10+ years (and are still going but now reside in my storage box in Ecuador).
"If you're considering this boot, this is the one you want."
I bought this boot for year round outdoor work at 11K' above sea level (9 month snowpack). If your foot fits in this boot, you'll be all set. Snug heel fit and ample room in the toe box. Medium arch support. Nothing feels forced with the boot - the shape is very natural for my feet - heel is locked in and all five toes move freely right from the first lace up. I ordered the same as my shoe size for wearing a single pair of thin to medium wool socks and am very happy with the fit. Stiff out of the box, but comfortable enough to wear all day. Sort of wish they didn't look like a clown crapped on my feet, but otherwise, really good boot.
"Great boots for when you want to get serious"
Haven't used these a ton yet but already love them. Took them up Mount Baldy in SoCal back in February for their maiden voyage and did great. Real secure no problem keeping crampons on like I've had when I used my normal backpacking boots. These are heavy duty for sure but so much better than plastic boots. Only problem I had on the descent they kept coming loose or untied probably just need to wear gaiters more