The Five Ten Men's Blackwing Shoe. Think Dragon with a Velcro closure. The padded tongue has a super soft, fleecy microfiber lining. It wicks sweat and gives the top ofyour foot support and comfort, no matter what the angle. The new Blackwing fits like a glove, but slides on easily. The team shoe heel cup is extra snug and the outsole is specifically designed for ultimate friction on overhanging rock.
DECENT FEATURES of the Five Ten Men's Blackwing Shoe
Fit in the toebox is a bit wider than the Dragons. Being the new heel design, the heel fits very well. Nice suede on the tongue; feels real nice in the shoe. Stretched out over a couple sessions (plus one night over wearing around the house). Only gripe is that the closure loops on the heel could be larger and better fastened. I have two friends who have ripped off the loops.
I got these around November of last year (2011) and he pretty was was dead on. At first AMAZING shoe, but soon after things just falling apart at an unacceptable rate. ESPECIALLY around the toe, where the sole piece meets the upper portion. I'm not an amazing climber, but my footwork is respectable and doesn't warrant deterioration like that. get this if you can on sale.
"Great initially, but deteriorates pretty fast"
04/23/12
Super comfy and padded tongue, not too hard to slip in pulling on the tabs that felt properly stitched on the shoes. The red stripes looks stylish. Stepping on foot holds felt firm and "sticky". 6 months down the road, this shoe lost all the conditions it had. I was I was just an avid sports boulderer on plastic most of the time. The sole became flat, the red pattern starts to flake and looked ugly. The glue on the edges of the rubber sole attaching to the shoe body starts to come out too. Sole felt much softer too. Other than that, no complaints. And pretty durable comparatively
I was only able to demo this shoe a few times, during those few sessions I realized the toe was powerful and precise but the heel was not all there. Supposedly the black wing and the team share the same heel, I beg to differ.
The blackwing fits my very slender feet like a glove, and has been near perfect. Edging, toeing and smearing are great, and the down-turned toe is delightful for bouldering. Since the shoe fits me so well I have never had any slop or slippage with the heel. Toe hooks are bomber! They are so solid I look for excuses to do them especially when they are unnecessary. I've heard that blackwing don't always fit other people's feet as well as they do mine so I'd recommend trying them on before buying. After a year-and-a-half I still couldn't be happier!
For me the Blackwing has been a near perfect shoe. I have slender feet, and this shoe fits me like a glove. Edging and smearing are pretty solid and the rubber is nice and sticky even when it's hot out. Heel hooks are really solid, and I can honestly say I've never had a problem with slop or slippage. Toe hooks are bomber! I sometimes find excuses to do them even when the route doesn't demand it. With all that said, it was pretty tough to break them in, and they've stretched about 1/2 size in a year and a half. I've also heard that they don't fit a lot of people's feet very well and I'm just an anomaly so definitely try them on before you buy. Hope this helps!
I use this as a indoor bouldering shoe and this shoe deffinitly competes with the Shaman or Solution. It is really not the most comfortable but for a downturned shoe, it is relitivly nice. Heel hooks are a little hard but the rest of the shoe is close to perfect.
$108.95
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