Rated 5 out of
Great slipperThis shoe is awesome. Used them as my primary sport climbing shoe while my Tesarossas were being resoled and was surprised by their all around performance. I've gone back to my Testarossas as my sport shoe but still use this for gym and bouldering for being easier on and off. My shoe volume is on the low end and these shoes still fit well for a slipper(many are too loose for my foot). The heal is super secure and grippy. I wear a 10.5 and it fits similarly to my 43 Testarossa. I wear 9.5 to 10 in street shoes(which I also fit tight).
Date published: 2015-07-03
Rated 5 out of
blown away by how perfect the shoe is!this was my third pair of climbing shoes i bought (my first and second being shamans and solutions) and hands down, these shoes have won my heart! the shoe is perfect in all aspects, great for toe/heel hooking, smearing (surprised by that), edging, and most importantly, for compression. the inner side of the foot's rubber wraps above my foot, so i am able to literally squeeze any arete and stick! Black diamond climber Chris Schulte wears these shoes, and he makes MUCH use out of that rubber! its stealth C4 rubber which is awesome!,,,,as far as sizing goes, five.ten is good about downsizing the shoe for you (especially their aggressive shoes, like this one). i wear a street size 8, and i bought it size 8, and my foot fits PERFECTLY, as in, my foot is squeezed and once broken in, they will still be squeezed. i recommend buying street size, worse case scenario, you'll have a shoe that will fit as if already broken in, but i highly doubt that will be the case.
Date published: 2015-04-26
Rated 5 out of
Great shoe, Great rubber!I bought this after wearing solutions for a year or so.
I am street shoe size 11.
I got a 9.5 in these, they are breaking in perfectly. This was the smallest my foot could fit into. They break in within a week. Size small cause they stretch.
i wear a 42 in solutions.
This shoe's rubber is awesome. The heel is awesome. A little bit painful on the Achilles tendon, but what isn't a little bit painful in climbing?
They have a stiffer toe box then solutions, so better for small foot holds, worse for smearing.
Because the toe-box is stiffer, it is harder to do toe hooks in then solutions, it doesn't have that little bump that solutions have which allows you to hook super well.
Still it has a lot of toe rubber, so toe hooks are still viable. Your heel is good enough that you will probably be favoring heel over toe mostly.
over all super comparable to the solution. Imagine a solution with better rubber, better heel, better toe, worse toe rubber, and a little less comfortable.
Date published: 2015-12-03
Rated 3 out of
Good, not greatThis is a good shoe for steep stuff. The edge is super sharp, which is great, but the point of the toes is kinda wide and boxy, so sometimes it's hard to engage that edge in a small, precise location. The fit isn't any more uncomfortable than your average super aggressive shoe, but the closure system pinches the skin on the tops of my feet. It works itself out after a few moves, but it just makes you dread putting on tight climbing shoes even more than normal.