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Rated 5 out of
Comfy, Burly, ALL day long all over my footsies.I was highly encouraged to purchase these by a salty-veteran-JTree-master-chief when I was campfire griping about the absolute garbage shoes I had spent way too much on to have shortly thereafter thrashed them in a SINGLE 4 day trip to JTree (see: La Sportiva Mythos. Avoid like plague. Not sticky, not durable. Akin to the Kardashians, everyone seems to love them, but I just can't wrap my head around why?!). Go ahead and talk armchair smack on my form or something, but if this didn't happen to any Five Ten shoes that I have owned and have lasted me over a year each of constant climbing...you tell me. I mean you probably post gems and witticisms on MP and ST all day anyway.
Anyway...WOW was he right! In the last several weeks I have put about 40 pitches on them on various terrain: Valley polish hand/finger cracks, Santa Barbara sandstone edging, Lover's Leap's luscious liebacks, & more. After all of those pitches, I kid you not Quijote, the rand still has very new looking edges just waiting to send the shreddy gnar (can yisualize my flatbill neon Neff hat?).
Once you these break in, they are quite comfortable (for a climbing shoe, let's be honest) and I know they're going to last (pun) for a long time.
Here are a few things to note:
The upper is lined with a synthetic, so it's probably not going to stretch more than ~30% of a size. When I purchased these, I overlooked that fact and got a half size down from my street size, 8 --> 7.5 mens. If I had the ability to try these on I would have gone with the 8s. They may continue to work themselves out a bit, but I do know I will size up a smidge next pair. Sizing up will offer better foot-jams in cracks too as my toes will be a bit straighter...right now I have them sized for sport or relaxed bouldering...but who boulders anyway?
Heel cup feels a bit more shallow that some other Five Ten shoes I have used (Coyote & Spire were way deep, Anasazi Slip-on is close, Anasazi VCS is slightly shallower)
The base of this shoe is definitely stiff and flat. Haven't taken it up a Bigwall yet...but I plan to over other shoes for free sections as it is in it for the long haul. It felt supportive, not constricting and solid on a couple all day routes in the Valley.
My feet are approx size 39-41 depending on the company, hangover, etc. etc. I also have a wider-than-average toe box, a high volume top of foot, and high arch area. The pair I have now is somewhat tipped out on the laces (I can still easily tie a bow) but I anticipate them being a bit more accommodating when I size up. They are still comfortable and have definitely opened up after being broken in.
If you're looking at miles of abrasive foot jamming into cracks, bring an extra pair of laces. The only part on the shoe showing wear for me right now is on the laces near the toes. They're kind of exposed...but I would rather abrade the laces than the leather.
Admit to yourself that you like the color.
In my arrogant, all-knowing decade of climbing I have had several pairs of Five Ten shoes and just absolutely love their build quality and sticky rubber. These are no exception.
I'm really looking forward to putting these through the ringer and you should too.
Date published: 2015-09-21
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