"Mind-Boggling Light and solid all-around"
As you know, these are stupid light. At first, I relegated them to being racking biners, since I figured that they were too small to clip well. However, I was doing a particularly long sport route, and I needed to use these. I was stunned by how easy it was too clip a rope into these. They are slightly catchier than a full-sized binder, but still very good.
I still cant get over how light this is. I use them as cam biners and as the bolt-side biner in alpine draws. Very low profile when racked. A little small for some uses and the stiff gate makes it hard to clip a rope into, but it excels at what its designed for
I use these for racking cams and for the gear side of my trad draws. I never noticed the "flaw" another reviewer mentioned (sharp edge on wiregate attachement) and have a hard time believing that these could ruin a sling.The weight savings are considerable. They are pretty small however. I've stopped using these for the rope side of my draws because I find them a little hard to clip sometimes. If you have really big hands, you might not like these.I'm not sure I would recommend these if you are using fat nylon slings. Especially tripled up, they (a) take up a lot of space inside the biner, and (b) might cause tri-axial or otherwise weird loading in a fall.
I have started to switch over my rack to camp nanos. When I first viewed them in a store they blew my mind and I did not think I could get used to something so small. The gate seems really stiff at first too. But, after time, the action gets better and you become more used to the handling. For racking and using as alpine draws there really is not any other option if weight is important to you. I have used the Wild Country Heliums, and obviously they feel better on the ground, but when climbing I do not really notice the difference. They are not for sport climbing or a day at the crag, but for alpine climbing or big multi-pitch, these are definitely a good choice.
I got this biner to use when backpacking to secure gear and to have a a full strength biner for use in emergency situations. As this hardly weighs anything and could be used as described, this was the obvious choice. It has the strength you need as with any other biner, but it's so lite you don't have to feel guilty about the weight. This is perfect for what I intend to use it for.
"Love them, but I have small hands (my seconds don't always)..."
I LOVE my nanos!! I use them on a lot of gear/protection. I have small hands though which is ideal for use; however, many of my seconds do not. I have to be mindful if I take these with me on a harder route (or one that is sketchy in my second's eyes) because it might take them a while to unclip it (and they better not leave it!!)...
I consider these a specialty biner that's geared toward an ultralight rack. If you haven't used one before I suggest you buy/borrow one and test it out before ordering a bunch of them. They're ridiculously light but they accomplish the weight reduction by shrinking the size. If you're willing to trade versatility for weight then these fit the bill. They're not for fat-fingered folk.
I really like these and I didn't think I would at first. I've got big hands and am sceptical of small biners to begin with. But once you pick one up it's so light you just can't help but try them out on a climb. They clip my 9.5mm rope really well and have a decent rope bearing surface for their size. Three colours will help you to keep everything organized at belays. If you're going to be replacing some of your rack, they really are worth the price.
These biners are super light and reasonably priced. They're great for racking cams. They are quite small. I've had little trouble clipping my 9.8mm rope, but the small size does limit them a bit. I think the BD neutrino, or better yet the new Petzl ange biners are a little easier to handle, though both are a little heavier. I use a mix of all 3 on my trad rack. These would be near impossible to handle with gloves. For ice season I move over to BD hotwires.